Berwick
Visitor Guide
Berwick-upon-Tweed: Location, location, location.
The most northerly town in England famous for its three bridges and Elizabethan town walls. Strolling round the town, walking along the river or sailing the harbour it is the bridges and ramparts which define this border town, fought over and defended for generations as a vital river crossing at the boundary between Scotland and England.
Berwick ©Martin Pettitt CC BY 2.0
There are three things that have shaped and defined Berwick-upon-Tweed - location, location, location.
The town sits at the mouth of the estuary of the River Tweed, the historic boundary between Scotland and England. Whoever controlled Berwick not only controlled access to the river but also the crossing point of the main road between the south, the borders and Scotland - The Great North Road. Control of Berwick meant control of and access to the borders, for trade and travel and for defence. This strategic location is why Berwick-upon-Tweed famously changed hands between the English and the Scots so many times and has shaped Berwick throughout its history. It is the reason for most of what makes for a fascinating visit - its three bridges, its fortified walls, its barracks. It is also what drew the painter LS Lowry to the visit and paint the town so often for over forty years.
Why is Berwick-upon-Tweed worth visiting?
For its three bridges - each constructed for a different purpose reflecting changing transport needs over three centuries.
To walk the walls and ramparts - part medieval, part Elizabethan.
To visit the the barracks, designed by the most famous 18th century English architect, Nicholas Hawksmoor, and in the museum learn about the town’s history and importance.
To follow The Lowry Trail and appreciate what drew the painter to the town.
To take a boat cruise to see the bridges and fortifications from a different vantage point and possibly spot seals, sea birds and occasionally dolphins.
Three Bridges Berwick ©Mark Elliot CC BY 2.0
Berwick Barracks ©Alan Paterson CC BY 2.0
Berwick Town Walls ©Ian Gratton CC BY 2.0
Lowry Trail ©Walter Baxter CC BY-SA 2.0
Berwick Harbour Cruise ©Walter Baxter CC BY-SA 2.0
Things to do in Berwick-upon-Tweed
1. Arrive by train
Berwick from the Train ©Rev Stan CC BY 2.0
If you can arrive at Berwick by train. The stretch of the East Coast Mainline between Edinburgh and Newcastle runs right along the coast and approaching from north or south the views from the train are spectacular.
We were staying in Alnwick and picked up the train in Alnmouth enjoying the views of the Northumberland coast along the way and over the the town as you approach cross the Royal Border Bridge. Designed by Robert Louis Stephenson and opened by Queen Victoria in 1850 crossing it it is a dramatic way to arrive.
The Royal Border Bridge ©Ian Patterson CC BY 2.0
Berwick Approach ©TJ DeGRoat CC BY 2.0
2. Visit the Barracks
Berwick Barracks ©Ian Taylor CC BY-SA 2.0
The best place to start your visit is at the English Heritage owned Berwick Barracks (TD15 1DF). Also known as Ravensdowne Barracks they were built in the early 18th century to a design by Sir Nicholas Hawkesmoor, one of the most famous architects of the 18th century. Alongside Vanburgh and Sir Christopher Wren, Hawksmoor was responsible for many iconic British buildings including St Paul’s Cathedral and Blenheim Palace.
The barracks are home to The Berwick Museum and Art Gallery whose exihibts give a good overview of the history of the town, and provide context for the rest of your visit.
3. Follow the Lowry Trail
The Lowry Trail ©Karen Bryan CC BY-ND 2.0
L S Lowry holidayed in Berwick-upon-Tweed for forty years and made over thirty paintings and drawings during his visits.
From the barracks you can walk up onto the town walls and pick up The Lowry Trail. This waymarked trail takes about three hours and provides a comprehensive tour of the town taking in the ramparts, the town walls and cobbled Georgian streets, and crossing the oldest of the three bridges, the 17th century Berwick Bridge, the neighbouring villages of Spital & Tweedmouth on the opposite side of the estuary.
Berwick Ramparts ©Nilfanion CC BY-SA 3.0
Berwick Walls ©Reading Tom CC BY 2.0
Berwick Cobbled Street ©Mark Elliot CC BY 2.0
Berwick Bridge ©John Lord CC BY 2.0
Spittal Beach ©Ian Gratton CC BY 2.0
4. Take a riverside stroll to view the bridges
Lindisfarne Castle ©Mark Berbezier CC BY-SA 2.0
In 1901, publisher Edward Hudson, owner of Country Life Magazine, bought the ruins of Lindisfarne Castle. He commissioned the architect Sir Edwyn Lutyens to convert the castle into a seaside holiday home. The result is what The National Trust describes as a castle that isn't a castle. A stark contrast to the ornate grandeur of nearby Bamburgh and Alnwick castles, on the inside Lindisfarne Castle is oddly small-scale and domestic. An Edwardian country house masquerading as a castle.
Lindisfarne Interior ©Tom Parnell CC BY-SA 2.0
As part of the design, Lutyens installed three boat sheds, recalling a once common practice in the North East of fishermen re-purposing defunct boats, upturning them, covering the hulls with tar, and using them for storage. The castle boat sheds are recent replacements, the originals were sadly destroyed by fire in 2005. However, around the harbour you can find authentic examples of boat sheds still in use.
Restored Boat Sheds ©The Real McCoy CC BY-SA 2.0
Authentic Boat Sheds ©Smudge 9000 CC BY-SA 2.0
Gertrude Jekyll was the most famous garden designer of the early twentieth century, creating over four hundred British gardens. She was a frequent collaborator with Lutyens. He commissioned her to convert the castle's former vegetable patch into an ornamental walled garden visible from the castle.
In 2023, The National Trust restored the garden according to Jekyll's original planting scheme. Since the castle was intended as a summer retreat, the garden is at its best in May, June & July.
Lindisfarne Walled Garden ©M J Richardson CC BY-SA 2.0
On the other side of the castle, you will also find a disused lime kiln, once used to burn limestone to create lime used as mortar in stone buildings and to improve agricultural yields.
Lindisfarne Lime Kiln ©Philip Halling CC BY-SA 2.0
5. Enjoy the scenery
Lindisfarne Castle View ©M J Richardson CC BY-SA 2.0
The path up to the castle affords magnificent views over the whole of the island, but it is also worth walking from the harbour up the hill called the Heugh. At the summit is an old coastguard lookout tower, which has recently been converted to a glassed-in observation deck. From there, you can enjoy fine views of the castle across the harbour and out to sea, to Bamburgh, the Farne Islands, and the beacons on Guile Point.
Lindisfarne Lookout Tower ©Jim Barton CC BY-SA 2.0
View from The Heugh ©Mark Elliot CC BY 2.0
View from The Heugh ©Glen Bowman CC BY-SA 2.0
A slightly steep path down the opposite side of the Heugh from the harbour will take you to a small, shingly beach. From there, tide permitting, you can walk out to St Cuthbert's Island - a tidal island off a tidal island, where you will find the ruins of a medieval chapel.
Path from The Heugh ©Glen Bowman CC BY-SA 2.0
St Cuthbert’s Island Low Tide ©David Purchase CC BY-SA 2.0
St Cuthbert’s Island High Tide ©Lisa Jarvis
Where to eat on Lindisfarne
We advise taking a picnic and eating it on one of the benches overlooking the harbour. The cafes and pubs in the village were hectic and crowded even when we visited outside of the peak season in September.
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