Amble & Warkworth

Amble developed in the 19th and early 20th century as a port for coal export from nearby collieries. It was hit hard by the decline in coal mining in the 1980s. Situated just outside of the Northumberland Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, until recently, it struggled to reposition itself as a tourist town. It is still a little rough around the edges. It has an authenticity that charms, though, particularly the marina and harbour area where chic restaurants and quirky retail “pods” share space with a working port.

A small island just off the coast of Amble, Coquet is owned by the Duke of Northumberland (who also owns Alnwick Castle). It is managed by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds as a nature reserve. It is home to the UK’s largest colony of rare and endangered roseate tern, puffins, eider ducks, and other gulls. The lighthouse, built in 1841, was once manned by William, elder brother of the famous Grace Darling. Today, automatic and solar-powered, it is still in operation.

Although visitors are not allowed on the island, Dave Gray’s family has been running boat tours from Amble Harbour for over forty years. They pass close enough to the island to give a good view of the lighthouse, seabirds, and seal colony.

Situated on the quayside in a wooden hut made from the timbers of a boat called Sea Quest, Fish Shack is a rustic but charming restaurant. In summer, there are tables out front and intimate wooden booths to the side. The seafood served is literally fresh off the boat.

Heading inland up the quayside from Fish Shack, you will find Amble Harbour Village (NE65 0FD). It is a collection of wooden retail “pods” each independently owned by a local business selling various crafts, souvenirs, food, and drink. We bought some serious sausage rolls from The Geordie Banger Company’s pod as the basis for the picnic we took to The Holy Island of Lindisfarne the following day.

Just opposite is the Northumberland Seafood Centre, which promotes sustainable, seasonal, varied fishing. In addition to selling locally caught seafood, they have a lobster hatchery you can walk around and a small exhibition explaining the process. We succumbed to temptation there, too - lobster and crab for dinner.

Amble sits at the mouth of the River Coquet, and it is an easy three-mile walk along a flat riverside track to get to the neighbouring village of Warkworth.

The village sits in a loop of the River Coquet, meaning you can walk around three sides on leafy riverside paths.

Now owned by English Heritage Warkworth Castle (NE65 OUJ) was once home to the Percy family, the Dukes of Northumberland, who now live at Alnwick. This eight hundred year old castle stands on a hilltop above the River Coquet. The walls command views to the coast, back along the river to Amble and Coquet Island. You can also visit the dungeons used as a filming location in the 1997 film Elizabeth, starring Kate Blanchett.

A short distance along the river from the castle is Warkworth Hermitage. This medieval stone chapel is cut into the banks of the river and accessible only by row boat.

Back in Amble, The Old Boathouse (NE65 OAA) is owned by the same team as Fish Shack. Situated right next to the Amble Harbour retail pods, it offers a less rustic, more chic dining experience. If you haven’t had your fill of seafood for the day, this would be our pick for dinner to round off the day

If you have driven rather than walked to Warkworth or find time during the day, Morwick Dairy Farm (NE65 9DG) is only a short distance from Amble and Warkworth.

You can buy ice cream made on the premises using milk from their dairy herd.